2009 ADVENTURES
CORAL SEA aboard Golden Dawn
In February I received a euphoric satellite call from Craig de Wit on
Golden Dawn in the Coral Sea. He had just, by chance, discovered the remains
of an old shipwreck. There were four anchors, chain, two cannon and assorted
debris and ballast stone spread over the top and edges of a reef in Australian
waters. Two of the anchors were huge and naturally his thoughts turned
to treasure … I put Craig in touch with Ed Slaughter who runs the
Qld Maritime Museum at Townsville and he informed Craig that the ship
had not been previously reported. He also informed Craig that the wreck
must not be disturbed and any treasure would belong to the Government,
however a reward may be warranted if the wreck turns out to be of historic
significance.
Craig and I rang around and put together an expedition to return to the
wreck in April. We cruised from Port Moresby and dived Eastern Fields,
Boot and Ashmore Reefs as well as some excellent sites on the Papuan Barrier
Reef. The highlight was the wreck of course. We had blue sky and sea and
a slight swell from the SE making waves break over the wreck at low tide.
I got rather excited as the sun’s rays striking the wreck made for
magical images. Visually, this was one of the most wonderful dives of
my life. I had several out-of-film emergencies and had to ascend and rush
back to the boat to reload and return. Not shooting digital yet, you may
ask? No – and glad, as there is still no way digital can capture
those sun’s rays!
After returning to Cairns I received a call from Ben Cropp – who
had dived the wreck in the 1980’s! He has a shot of one of the cannons
in his fascinating book “Blood in the Water” (Buy a copy!)
He thinks it is the Brig Sun that was carrying Spanish silver coins salvaged
by Frank Jardine in 1891. But Ed Slaughter thinks the anchors are too
big for this 185 ton Brig …. More expeditions are required to find
out …
I think it is worth noting that within hours of entering Australian Waters,
Golden Dawn was buzzed by an Australian patrol aircraft and required to
report. The next day a Patrol Ship in the area called us. Efficient policing
of our remote reefs is something we should all be very happy about.
KOMODO aboard Seven Seas
In May, Dinah and I joined Ron and Val Taylor, Stan and Suzy Waterman,
Wendy Benchley, Annie Doubilet, Chip and Susan Scarlett, Douglas Seifert
and Emily, Gordy Waterman, Jason, Clive, Marti and Patrice aboard the
magnificent Seven Seas to cruise Komodo.
We had fabulous diving on spectacular reefs. Some with racing currents,
some in warm crystal water and some in cold murky water. This is the Komodo
way! We got chased by Komodo Dragons and anchored in idyllic primordial
landscapes.
Mark and Greg Heighes run a terrific dive company and boat and are booked
years ahead. I loved the Seven Seas which is constructed in traditional
fashion from hand hewn timbers. Most of the dives were in the Komodo National
Park. I dived here in 2001 and I can say that it is obvious that marine
life has prospered since the Park was established. We saw more and bigger
reef fishes and lots of manta rays. The soft corals thrive in the rich
waters and strong currents.
We were disappointed that there were some local fishing boats illegally
fishing, and plastic garbage floating through the Park. It is great to
see Indonesia creating National Parks to protect its marine life, but
there is obviously lots more work to be done with better Rangers and pollution
controls. Over-nighting in Bali, we went for a stroll along Kuta Beach.
It had rained heavily the day before and storm water was still running,
cutting garbage-lined drains from land to sea. The drains stank of effluent.
It was disgusting.
APRIL 2008 - IMAX on Star Dancer with Howard Hall
600Kg of camera and housing required a crane on Stardancer. Two Technicians, three divers to launch, recover and "swim" the camera, two to shoot the film, one to look after the re-breathers and other gear, one for communications surface to diver. And me to spot the critters. This was a totally amazing experience with Howard and Michelle Hall whose no-nonsense professionalism was inspiring. We were not blessed with clear water but I was lucky to find some great critters. Look out for the new 3D Imax from Howard and Michelle out in 2009!
MAY 2008 - Highlight of my month running Golden Dawn was the trip Alotau to Walindi with Diving Doctors led by Dr. Cathy Meehan from Cairns. Wonderful people and divers, lots of exploration and great diving.
JULY 2008 - I spent this month with two Super Yachts. Helios in the end decided not to go to PNG however another, even bigger Yacht, did go to PNG and I spent two weeks aboard with some fantastic people - who wish to remain private. Fabulous boat and great owners and their guests, their adventurous attitude really making the most of PNG, especially with shore visits and singsings, and purchasing an incredible quantity of artefacts.
NIMROD August
2008 - A last minute opportunity saw me aboard the Nimrod Explorer for
a great cruise from Lizard Island to Cairns. Read about it in Stories.
I was able to photograph the famous Potato Cod, a cooperative sea snake
and a turtle feeding on a sea jelly. The Great Barrier Reef has some fabulous
reef re-growth and is looking in much better shape than you may have heard.
Schools of Trevally and snapper were very photogenic and I SAW THE LAST
OF THE 2008 DWARF MINKE WHALES. All THESE CREATURES UP CLOSE and PERSONAL
INTERNATIONAL
SCUBA DIVING HALL OF FAME
In January 2008 Dinah and I travelled to Grand Cayman Island as guests
of the Cayman Island Ministry of Tourism where I was inducted into the
ISDHF. We were treated royally, met old friends, mentors and heroes and
did some diving during our 5-day visit. I made a presentation on PNG at
the film Festival the next evening.
Dinah made her first Caribbean dive and of course within moments she had
discovered Flamingo Tongue cowries, scorpionfish, tilefish, a nurse shark,
turtles, hamlets and all the other fish strange to the western Pacific.
We also saw a submarine and a mermaid underwater.
Passing through the USA we stayed with Steve Drogin whose own submarine
has now done over 550 dives to a max depth of 1500 feet. We met old and
new diving friends at a party at his house including his lovely wife Hiro.
In Florida we stayed with Dr. Genie Clark, and got a good look around
the Mote Marine laboratory, which Genie started in the 1950s, and Ringling"s
Museum.
We also met with Terry and Dave from Ultralite strobe arms (the best!)
and friends Laura and Bud. They took us to lunch hosted by Jim Harlan
of Uncommon Adventures, and to the Getty Art Museum.
Thanks to all of you for your wonderful hospitality.
The journey turned out to be "Dancing with the Gods", but with
sterling assistance from Steve Drogin and Bridgit from Cayman Islands
Tourism, we returned home on schedule.
November 2007
Both Dinah and I were in Alotau for the Kundu and Canoe Festival, Dinah
on Twizzle, a Super Yacht she spent a few days aboard acting as dive guide,
and myself with Captain and friends from Super Yacht Helios, scouting
Alotau as preparation for a visit in July/August when I will be guiding.
Any Super Yachts planning a trip to PNG please contact us. We can help
you!
I also made a day trip out of Cairns on Tusa 5, a terrific brand new day
dive boat that you can read about in "A Day On The Reef".
The BBC is filming another
in the Blue Planet, Planet Earth series, so Dinah and I spent 2 weeks
aboard the Marlin 1 with Wayne Thompson finding Convict Fish. The weather
was foul with Cyclone Guba (a once in 40 year event) messing up the visibility,
but Peter Scoones still managed to get splendid footage. Read about it
in "Why I Love The BBC".
October 2007
2006 News & Recent Tours - Update December 2006
WITH DR GENIE
CLARK ON CHERTAN
One evening in August 2005 I received a telephone call. A faint Asian
voice started "I am calling you from..." I immediately assumed
a sales pitch and hung up with a "Thank you but we are not interested!".
Within a few seconds the phone rang again with the lady the other end
protesting that she needed to speak to Bob Halstead (whoops).She was calling
from Japan National Television and wanted me to lead a charter to PNG
to film the Convict Fish (Pholidichthys leucotaenia). A story about the
fish, which included one of my photographs, had appeared in June 2005
National Geographic. They would also film any other interesting reef critters
I could find. Even better they would try to get Dr Genie Clark with whom
we had studied the fish on Golden Dawn, Paradise Sport and Telita, to
join us.
And so it came to pass, in January 2006 aboard Chertan we had a splendid
and highly successful cruise in Milne Bay. Chertan was run by Rob Vanderloos
who was very helpful in finding weird critters for us to film, and we
were filming the convict fish from the very first day. It was just wonderful
to see Genie Clark again and particularly to see her in such good health.
She made several dives herself and is now planning a series of three charters
with us in Milne Bay for 2007 aboard Febrina. The erudite Mr Tony Wu was
also aboard, and I have to say, with some alarm, we share the same sense
of humour. Paronomasia pervaded the cruise.
WITH MR RICARDO
ABOARD LIONWIND
Lionwind is a beautiful 46 m luxury Feadship and the owner, Mr Ricardo,
invited me to guide the ship through Milne Bay. Yes it is a tough life.
The only problem I had was loosing my shirts. It is my custom, after giving
the dive enlightenment, to whip the shirt off and throw it to the deck,
a maturing process adding to the dinner drool and sweat. But when I returned
from the dive the shirts had disappeared - it was not until later I discovered
them all, washed, ironed and folded in one of my stateroom drawers! A
warning - do not try this at home fellas. Peter Mooney from Cairns joined
me - he was in charge of digital cameras, alas inspite of his valient
efforts, I'm still shooting film. Nevertheless we became good friends.
Mr Ricardo's son and guests were a delight and the lifestyle one I rapidly
adjusted to.We had some great diving too of course.
WITH KEVIN
AND CHERIE DEACON ON TELITA
It is people that make any cruise fantastic and this was one of the very
best. Kevin an I have long been friends - Deacon's Reef is named after
him, and Kevin even proposed to Cherie aboard one of our cruises.
Since this was Dinah's and my last schedlued cruise aboard Telita it was
a great way to end up. At the end of 2005 we had a fabulous cruise on
Telita with Irvin Rockman and friends and that was extraordinary too,
including some memorable shore visits. In particular at Kitava the villagers
put on a superb artifact market and traditional dance.
2006 - 2007
NEWS FEBRINA & GOLDEN DAWN
In 2007 April May June I will be hosting cruises aboard the Febrina in
Kimbe Bay. Dates are still being finalised but if you would like to join
me on one of these cruises please contact Cheryll
Miller I joined FeBrina in Kimbe Bay in May 2006 for a fabulous cruise
- read all about it in my story in Articles.
I also joined Golden Dawn as a guest on one of their fantastic northern
PNG cruises to Hermit and Ninigo Islands with Irvin Rockman. It was a
wonderful cruise and Skipper Craig de Wit had, just one week before we
arrived, been shown by villagers a Zero wreck at Wei Island that had never
been dived before. The aircraft is untouched, and in clear water at 24m,
but upside down. The story of the cruise is in the Articles section. Golden
Dawn can be contacted at info@mvgoldendawn.com
SPOILSPORT OUT OF CAIRNS. At short notice in October I joined some friends on Spoilsport for a cruise from Lizard Island to Cairns. Read about it in Real Diving for Women in the Articles section.
NEW P38 LIGHTNING
AIRCRAFT WRECK DISCOVERED
Bob and Dinah, and lucky divers aboard Telita on a dive cruise from Alotau
to Tufi, guided by villagers near Cape Vogel in Milne Bay, have dived
a previously unknown and perfect Lockheed P38 Lightning aircraft wreck.
The wreck lies on a reef slope between 12 and 17 m depth. Its propellers
have been feathered by the pilot who gently ditched the aircraft avoiding
any damage. The pilot escaped the cockpit, and survived the crash. There
is significant coral growth on the wreck which is a beautiful and photogenic
dive.
Bob recovered
the radio call sign 2-12649 and research shows the aircraft was shipped
to the 5th USAAF in Australia on 12 August 1942 from San Francisco and
was lost by four months later on a delivery flight to Milne Bay. A light
mooring has been set on the reef top near the wreck in 6 m of water and
local villagers at Magabara, led by Henry Katura, who first saw the plane
while fishing for beche-de-mer, will guide visitors to the wreck. All
souveniring and any damage to the wreck or surrounding corals is strictly
prohibited.
NEWS LETTER - Finally, and not for the faint hearted, read the Halstead
New Year Newsletter 2007
Bookings for MV Golden Dawn can be made by contacting MV Golden Dawn
Bookings for Febrina can be made by contacting Cheryll Miller
